If you have used interfacing in all of your blocks, you will need to use interfacing on the sashing and borders. The reason you will do this is because the sashing and borders will stretch more than the blocks and it will be difficult to keep it flat to quilt if it does not have interfacing.
Preparing and Cutting the Sashing and Borders
(Sashing = Strips of fabric that go between and around the blocks)
I cut a length of iron-on interfacing to fit the width (selvage to selvage) of the black and the green (Kiwi) fabrics. Press it onto the wrong side of the sashing and border fabrics.
After the interfacing is attached to the back of the fabric, cut 2 1/2 inch strips as follows for the sashing:
Green (Kiwi) = 7 strips
Black =12 strips
Assembling the Quilt Top
You have now assembled all your blocks and they are ready to be joined into sections using sashing strips between the blocks.
For the first section:
1. Sew the Key block to the top of the Candle block.
2. Sew the Fairy block to the top of the Bomb block.
We will join the two sections to the Link block by adding sashing to each long side of the of the Key/Candle block and the Fairy/Bomb block and sewing to the sides of Link.*
Helpful Hint: *Measure the length of the two sections and the Link block. If there is a large difference between the sections, you may need to add a piece to the shorter section. For example: If the Key/Candle block is 1 inch shorter than the Link block, cut a 1.5 inch strip of interfaced black fabric. (The half inch is the seam allowance.) Measure the width of the Key/Candle block (15.5)and cut the 1.5 inch strip that length – 1.5 X 15.5 inches.
Sashing will be added between the blocks in the middle and bottom sections of the quilt, using the same color fabric as the background in the blocks. Sashing will also be added all around the outside of each of the three sections. To do this, measure the length of each section and cut sashing to that measurement for the ends of the section. (It should be the same length as the sashing you added between the blocks.) Next measure the width of the entire section and sew a piece of sashing to the top and bottom of the section. Make sure each of the three large sections measure the same width.
When you have all three sections assembled, sew the sections together as shown above in the illustration of the quilt.
Adding the Border
(3 1/2 inch strips)
Green (Kiwi) = 8 strips
To make the border, I like to join all the strips end to end to make one long piece. Measure the length of the quilt top and cut 2 pieces that length. Sew one on each side of the quilt top. Next, measure the width of the quilt and cut 2 pieces that measurement. Sew to the top and bottom edge of the quilt.
Helpful Hint: If one piece is slightly larger than the other piece, place the larger piece on the bottom next to the feed dogs on the machine when you sew. This helps to ease the slightly different sized pieces together.
Congratulations! You have now finished the quilt top!
Quilt as desired.
I quilted my Zelda quilt on my short-arm quilting frame. Because of the thickness of the quilt top with all the seams and interfacing, I used a large needle in my machine and did a large meander design.
This is the only part of the quilt that will NOT have interfacing. I like to cut 2.5 inch strips and join them together with a diagonal seam. Use your favorite method of binding to finish your Zelda quilt.
We are now ready to make Tri-force, the last block in the quilt-along This one is not made with a grid like the rest of the blocks. Because the previous blocks were made with interfacing, we will need to add interfacing to this block also.
You will need a ruler with a 60 degree line.
Before we cut out this block, we will apply iron-on interfacing to the back of the fabric as follows:
Apply interfacing to the wrong side of the Kiwi and the Canary fabrics.
2 pieces - 17 X 9 5/8
1 piece – 8 5/8 X 9 7/8
3 pieces - 8 5/8 X 9 7/8
We are now ready to cut the large triangles for the right and left sides of the Tri-force blocks using the (2) 17 X 9 5/8 pieces of Kona Kiwi with interfacing. IMPORTANT: These triangles MUST be cut one at a time because they are not the same.
Place your ruler on the diagonal on one piece from the upper left corner to the lower right corner and cut. We will only use one piece. You may discard the other half.
For the second triangle, cut from the upper right corner to the lower left corner. Again, we will use one piece and discard the other piece.
We have now cut the right and left pieces of the Tri-force block.
The center of the block has 1 Kiwi and 3 Canary triangles. Using the 8 5/8 X 9 7/8 interfaced fabrics, mark the center of each piece on one of the 9 7/8 inch sides. Line up the 60 degree line on the ruler with the bottom edge (9 7/8) of the fabric and slide the ruler until it is lining up the bottom corner of the fabric with the center mark on the top edge. Cut on this line. Turn the ruler around and line up and cut the other side to make a triangle. The cut triangle should measure 8 5/8 inches high by 9 7/8 at the base.
See the above picture and assemble the Tri-force block as follows:
Sew the Canary triangles to the right and left sides of the Kiwi triangle. Press seams toward the canary triangle. Sew the 3rd Canary triangle to the third side of the Kiwi triangle and press toward the Canary triangle.
The final step is to sew the large Kiwi triangle to the right and left sides of the Canary and Kiwi triangles that you just assembled. The unfinished* size of the Tri-force block is 18 1/2 X 16 1/2 inches, the same as the Sword and Shield and Bow and Arrow blocks. If your block is smaller than this size, you can add a strip of fabric to the top or bottom of the block to make it longer. and likewise to the sides, to achieve the desired size.
Helpful Hint: * Unfinished size is the measurement before the block is sewn onto the block or sashing next to it.
The final step to assemble the quilt block will be to make sashing and borders. This will be detailed in the next post.
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